Tale of two castles, visiting Old San Juan Puerto Rico

Towering over the city, ancient battlements stand guard. The construction of these immense forts and walls began in the 16th century by the Spanish to protect their treasure ships. They ended more than 250 years later. San Juan, Puerto Rico is one of many ancient strong cities that once dotted the Caribbean. Remnants of the massive walls that once surrounded the city are still visible in many parts of Old San Juan. The jewels of the city, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristóbal still loom large. Enter the city by boat and El Morro dominates the skyline. Once docked, a short walk takes guests to San Cristóbal. El Morro guarded the bay. Larger and 200 years newer, San Cristóbal once protected the land to the east of the old city. In the late 1800s, about a third of San Cristóbal was demolished to improve the flow of traffic through the city. The United States added bunkers and artillery during World War II. Now both castles invite tourists to defend the city with dollars to help keep the economy viable instead of soldiers with weapons repelling the many enemies that have threatened the city over the centuries.

Both castles are World Heritage Sites, under the protection of the National Park Service. El Morro, as it is known, also has a cathedral and an old cemetery with the remains of Ponce de León. To the delight of many visitors, iguanas cut the grass in San Cristóbal. Quite accustomed to human intrusion, they almost seem to pose for the numerous photographs that people take of them.

A walk through the city’s blue brick cobblestone streets reveals colonial architecture, brightly colored buildings and cats sleeping in fanciful doorways. The blue bricks are a remnant of the Spain of 1800. Slag from furnaces brought from Spain as ballast for ships, give rise to unique streets of great beauty. Modern cars have some difficulty maneuvering on streets intended for horse and buggy use. They often run over the curb when turning corners.

Transportation: Your own feet can get you around Old San Juan if you have the time and energy. Other options include the tour bus, the free Forest Service shuttle, and bike rentals.

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